Standing on top of Shunnor fell last summer, I noticed a small glassy puddle in the distance. A glance at the map revealed that it was Birkdale Tarn which is mentioned in the book ‘James Herriot’s Yorkshire’. I had passed this small lake before on the road between Keld and Kirkby Stephen but it was on a blustery day and decided against climbing up to see it, especially as Alf described it as ‘inexpressibly lonely and in desolate surroundings’. The photograph in the same book does little to attract readers to go climb up and see it either. But this weekend I had a few hours to spare, perfect weather and the siren call to go see Birkdale Tarn for myself. And I wasn’t disappointed.

I parked in a gravel pull-in below the lake, exactly where Alf and his family had stopped that spring day to admire another grand vista of Yorkshire. The hill behind leading up to the Tarn looks rather steep from the road but also very enticing.

Zig Zagging up the slope I was soon at the top and what I saw was not like the desolate picture in the book at all. OK, so it’s not big, it’s not dramatic, but, just like Semerwater, it has its own serene beauty.

The book describes how, on that day, Alfs children, Rosie and Jim, were intrigued by the birds and their nests around the lake. Today, I did spot several birds on and around the lake but I got the distinct impression that I was not very welcome because they all flew off or kept their distance. All except one little bird that seemed oblivious to me and more interested in poking around in the water for food.

The uneven moorland all around is tufted with reeds and grasses and I am very sure that on winters days it is rather exposed and desolate. But not today. It is mid May, calm, fresh and warm. Clouds were making mottled patterns on the glassy surface which made it all a very enchanting scene.

Walking around the lake took only about twenty minutes, watched over by the imposing Shunnor Fell to the South. I could just make out the tiny dot on top which was the stone shelter where I had stood with my daughter on that hot summers day.

On the south side of the lake directly above the road there is a man-made construction which was put in place to contain the lake and channel water down through underground channels to a lead mine in Birkdale below the road. Impressive when you think this all had to be done without the use of modern heavy machinery.

Having satisfied my curiosity and received my reward for climbing up to the lake, there was one further surprise waiting for me when I got back to where I had parked the car. A proud Swaledale ram standing guard, gazing over Birkdale as if seeking my opinion. I gave him an admiring nod and set off for the next days adventure with another couple of Herriot fans to visit my favourite spot mentioned in the same book – Crackpot Hall.