Todays section of the walk was from Keld to Grinton via Gunnerside and Reeth. It’s shown on the map below and follows part of the coast to coast route. The red section is walking and the green section cycling. It follows the exact footsteps that Alf and Jim did back in the 1950’s and is described in Alfs own words in the book ‘James Herriots Yorkshire’.

Yesterday (Day 2) will be a hard act to follow but the joy of this trip is that each day is different.

The Keld to Gunnerside section was a walking section. There is no way it could be cycled, even if you wanted to. So I would be walking it, but how would I get back to Keld to collect my Bike? The answer was by Bus. The only snag was that it was Sunday and the only bus back to Keld left Gunnerside at 11.10am. That meant an early start. Too early to get breakfast, so I ordered a packed lunch at Keld Lodge to eat along the way for breakfast.

Up early and following in Alfs footsteps I made my way down to the village and turned right along the footpath. I soon passed an ancient barn, or cow-house (or even Cow’us) as they are called here.

This leads to the bridge over the River Swale where Alf and Jim “lingered, watching the tumbling water”. Immediately after the bridge is the small waterfall mentioned in the book.

The path then turns into a wider stony track which rises steadily until the path splits. I took the higher path and soon Crackpot Hall came into sight. Alf wrote this about Crackpot Hall in the book; “It seemed to me that I could never be unhappy here, or plagued by the little worries of the world”. I has read those words so many times and now I knew exactly what he meant.

A funny thing happened next. I have a friend on Facebook, Paul, who has an equal love of the Dales and we have mentioned Crackpot Hall several times. As I walked on to the point where the view is at its most stunning a figure approached me ahead, laden with rucksack. As we passed I recognised from the photos he posts that it was Paul and when I said his name and introduced myself we were both surprised, shocked even, at the coincidence of meeting at that very spot at that very time. We talked for a while and stood and stared at the view. It turned out that Paul had been wild camping above crackpot hall that night. I recited Alfs words about that view to him. He promised to go and read the books on his next camping trip – and I will make sure he does!

We bade each other farewell and I walked on to Swinnergill. The path rises steeply here and over craggy rocks alongside a gushing stream of crystal clear water. As the path staggered its way up the hill I was amazed to see stone slab steps had been installed to make it a bit easier – how on earth did they manage to construct that in such a remote location? At the top it met a wider track which continued over Melbeck Moor. It was a bit more level and open now so I had time to get my breath back and fish out my pack-up breakfast. I’d earned it after that climb. Wensleydale cheese and pickle sandwiches for breakfast isn’t something I would normally recommend but this morning up there on Melbeck Moor it was food fit for a king.

After a mile or so the level track curves to the right but just before this I branched off to the left following Alfs footsteps down a path leading to the Blakethwaite lead mine ruins.

It was a tricky little path zig zagging its way down but with a little care I got to the bottom. There was a little stone slab bridge across to the old mine building ruins which were just begging to be explored.

I tried to imagine the hardships of the men working these mines in this remote location. The only possible attraction, apart from earning a living, must have been the stunning countryside around them. Apparently many died young from the hazards of the work. If you lived over 40 you were doing well. Certainly not the ‘privileged generation’ that is often mentioned these days.

I then followed the route down the valley towards Gunnerside. It passed more disused mine relics and, in stark contrast, a number of little bubbling streams spewed crystal clear water into the river below.

I then past another Lead mining relic – Bunting mine.

After this I continued along what Alf called ”That most beguiling of grass tracks”. And beguiling it certainly is. Soft fine grass of the type you only find in these sort of wild areas. I wandered along in total silence with only the occasional sheep for company.

I had walked this path several times before, but only in my dreams. Today, in real life, it met every expectation. I floated along, breathing the clear air, until eventually the path entered Birkbeck Wood via a wooden stile. It continued as an enchanting woodland pathway accompanied by the chorus of rushing water from the nearby Gunnerside Beck.

This bit of the walk went on for longer than expected and there were lingering thoughts that I might not reach Gunnerside in time to get the only bus back to Keld. But I needn’t have worried because the chimney pots of a Gunnerside house soon peeped out from the trees ahead. It was the old school building. The pathway ran alongside it and down some stone steps onto a lane leading to the bridge in the village centre.

Alf and Jim turned left and carried on walking towards Reeth. But I needed to get back to Keld and get back on my bike to cycle back to Gunnerside to resume Alfs route. The bus stop was on the other side of the bridge and must be the prettiest waiting area in the country. If there is one place to miss your bus then this is it. But I needn’t have worried because the bus soon came along and I clambered on for a welcome rest. The short ride to Keld had the added bonus of a moving panorama of Kisdon hill passing my window as we travelled back to Keld.

Soon I was back in the bike re-tracing the bus route and back in Gunnerside and making my way onwards towards beautiful Reeth. The next stop was exactly where Alf stopped on his walk – The Punchbowl Inn at Low Row.

Alf mentions, in his account of this walk, that Robert Hardy made this pub/hotel his HQ whilst filming ACGAS 1. I have heard stories of some lively after-work parties in here too. I can see why Robert chose this location to stay because this is the view from the front door…

I was quite thirsty so I made my way inside just as Alf and Jim did on that day. Here is the bar area today (below). Very smart and tidy. It could do with Robert Hardy leading the charge at the bar and causing some merriment but today it was Sunday and this is 2022.

I saw this old door and wondered about all the dales characters that have been through it ..

After a thirst quenching pint of orange juice and lemonade I was on the road again. The next place Alf makes mention of in the story is Riddings Farm. I had actually stayed there a few years ago when it was a B&B. The Farmers wife was so kind and looked after me like I was royalty. I don’t think they have the B&B anymore but I have seen the stunning view that Alf described ” ... I came out of the cow byre and looked down on the scene far below which has stayed in my memory“. I couldn’t work out how the farmer got any work done with that view constantly urging you to stop and stare. I suppose for them it is just a workplace. Interestingly, whilst they knew of James Herriot of course, they were unaware of their farms mention in ’James Herriots Yorkshire’ so it was such a pleasure to show her that piece in the book and her face beamed as she read it. I wonder if she remembers that?

It was only a short distance now down the hill into Reeth, I imagine that by this time Alf was ready for a rest and an Ice Cream. It was a Sunday, just like today, which explains why there were plenty of visitors parked on the green.

Reeth, like most of the villages on this circular trip, is largely unchanged. What has changed though is more cars and Reeth green gets used as a car park on busy days like today.

It is surprising how many people haven’t seen the original 1975 black and white film ‘It shouldn’t happen to a vet‘. It stars the late great Anthony Hopkins as Siegfried. The Skeldale house in that film is on the corner as I entered Reeth today. Unchanged, like a kind of time warp. That made a hat-trick of Skeldale houses that I had seen this past 3 days.

Before I leave Reeth I want to post a picture I didn’t take but one that features in Jim Wights book about his Dads life ”The Real James Herriot”. This is a most excellent book. If you have not read this book then go and buy it or download it and read it without delay. I wont spoil it by saying anything further other than to say that Jim has inherited his Dads gift for writing and observing people. The magic ingredients that have enthralled millions. I hope Jim wont mind me reproducing this photo of him and his Dad Walking near Reeth on their walk just as I did today. I am grateful to them both.

I took on some refreshment before leaving Reeth just as Alf and Jim did and then headed off through Fremington where Alf recalls digging his car out the snow. Then on over the bridge to attack the hill leading to Grinton YHA and passing the quaint cottages along the steep road which Alf admired in his account of the walk.

I arrived at the YHA an hour early only to discover that they didn’t open until 5pm. I really didn’t fancy going down that hill only to have to battle back up it again later. So I lay down in the heather just down the road from the YHA just like Alf did in his story. I found a nice springy patch near a rock and stretched out, using my cycle helmet as a pillow and started to browse the days pictures on my smartphone. A nice one of Crackpot hall, a blurry one of Swinnergill …. Then I was woken from a deep sleep by my phone which was lying on my chest. It was a most lovely message related to my trip from one of Alfs very biggest fans – and that put a big smile back on my face. It was nearly 5pm too so I gathered my bits and pieces and walked into the YHA in the very best of spirits. This was the end of a very good day.

Inside, the staff were so friendly and helpful and provided a lovely hot meal amongst other cyclists and walkers. One group had cycled from Leeds – 60 miles. And were cycling back the next day! So Keld to Grinton all of a sudden seemed a bit tame. But we laughed that off.

Interestingly, the friendly young lady on the front desk overheard me talking to another walker about James Herriot and her ears pricked up when I mentioned that Alf had stayed here multiple times with both Jim and Rosie. They were both interested and amazed so out came my smartphone again to display the relevant pages and pictures which they were enthralled by.

After retiring from the friendly banter in the common room following a hearty dinner I noticed this example of northern humour in my room (see below). I had experienced enough to give me a permanent smile already today but this tipped me over the edge and I laughed out loud – just like Alfs books still make me do.

Goodnight – Day 4 and the final day of my James Herriot YHA tour tomorrow….

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